No barriers to entry; ADA-compliant restroom. Kinship is tasteful in all ways. The latest major change at Thamee (daughter in English and pronounced thumb-MEE) turned a full-service restaurant into a fast-casual operation. Try it, youll like it. See a pupusa on the list? Indoor and outdoor seating. Open for indoor and outdoor dining, delivery and takeout. The decade-old restaurant has fun with its wine list, a liquid romp around the world. One of multiple marvels is a tiny taco whose dark filling, hidden beneath shredded lettuce, is a ringer for ground beef. Theres more to explore: whole scored fried sea bass festooned with carrots, red peppers and onions that taste like theyre plugged in to an electric socket a beauty of a Jamaican escovitch and saucy curry goat heaped over steaming rice and peas. New head chef Samuel Meoo, 27, is behind the whole chicken, brined in a host of goodies ginseng tea, Sichuan peppercorns, ginger, honey then air-dried for a day, roasted, lacquered and gussied up with so many colorful flowers, its as if the chicken encountered a ticker-tape parade en route to the table. The game-changer prefers to surprise customers and maybe change your mind.. My vote goes to Daru, whose black-and-glass door commands attention with concentric white rings inspired by Himalayan mandalas and a welcome written in Sanskrit: The guest is god. Who doesnt want more litchi salad with sausage and habanero in their lives? Indoor and outdoor seating ($100 for gazebo seating). Sandwiches are iffy. Dinner commences with a flurry of snacks a bite of pork rillettes paired with fig and black garlic, a furl of smoked salmon on a dab of yogurt and pickled herbs before moving on to dishes that ask diners to eat outside the box. Her husband and co-owner, Louis, is responsible for the brio on the plate. Meals unfold in a dining room dressed with paintings from Addis Ababa and offering live entertainment on Thursday (Ethiopian jazz) and Saturday (traditional music). A special pop-up becomes a permanent fixture, Entrees $17 to $21, $49 for family platter. As long as they keep getting it from me!. Service seems to be in a free fall as dining room staff have left the industry in droves, theres a chance youll be asked for proof of vaccination when you show up for your reservation, and good luck finding somewhere to eat early in the week or late at night. Another liquid pleasure is an old-fashioned, gold with saffron liqueur, biting with ginger liqueur and softly nutty, thanks to the introduction of Scotch to cashew butter. Law-Yone asked the hotel kitchen staff to make a dish they would typically cook for themselves, nothing fussy. Indoor and outdoor seating. Equally enticing are the prices: Only one of A&Js many dishes costs more than $13. [Shake up your dinner routine with a (short) road trip]. If the operation sounds strict, it still holds great appeal. Riding shotgun: a tamal of housemade masa wrapped in Swiss chard. Pan-roasted lamb loin is nearly upstaged by its dagger of red kuri squash, flavorful from a braise of lamb trimmings and saffron. Fiola DC named #2 Best Italian Restaurant in the World by 50 Top Italy. Pizza! So many fancy snacks might kick off dinner gravity-defying gougeres, caviar and creme fraiche sandwiched in see-through wafers you could be forgiven for feeling full by the second course, and the recruits give me hope for the future of restaurant service. The service is every bit as engaging as the food, and the only thing you miss by sitting outside is the chance to say "grazie mille" to the woman watching over the kitchen. Otherwise, it feels like 2019 in the sedate dining rooms, where servers in smart Alton Lane suits attend to your needs like the pros they are and the ever-epic menu is divided into categories that prioritize the thinking of chef Eric Ziebold. These days, customers can still count on Smiths high standards in every order of carryout. Steak fries are cut by hand and sprinkled with paprika; collard greens get their personality not from pork and vinegar but from garlic and onions. The former White House chef even manages to make cabbage seductive. Say amen to the velvety collard greens (best splashed with hot sauce), mashed potatoes flecked with red bits of peel, and creamy mac and cheese. It's dinner alfresco, here in The Plains. Brandwein can also be dramatic, evinced by poached sablefish paired with black chickpeas, a monochromatic moment worthy of a frame. Dinner daily, brunch weekends. We're counting down Post food critic Tom Sietsema's Top 5 restaurants in and around Washington for 2022 over the next two weeks, highlighting one restaurant each weekday until Tom's full. Takeout and delivery on weekdays. He previously worked for the Microsoft Corp., where he launched sidewalk.com; the Seattle Post-Intelligencer; the San Francisco Chronicle; and the Milwaukee Journal. Just ask the customers who ordered the Korean take on beef Wellington, swaddled in pork belly, for Christmas. Katherine excels at sweet endings. Few chefs have more fun getting us to eat our vegetables than Rob Rubba, whose (mostly) plant-based tasting menu is a garden of good eating in Shaw. Its a leftover from the previous occupant, Alba Osteria. Takeout Sunday and Tuesday through Thursday, no delivery. My visit featured grilled prawns and sweet scallops napped with two sauces one fruity with mango and raisins, another lobster bisque enriched with sun-dried tomato and staged with julienned snow peas that offered welcome crunch. One slice leads to another, and before you know it, you feel like youre the piggy which doesnt stop you from inhaling some butterscotch pudding before you waddle out. To splurge, go with the Chateaubriand for two. Such beautiful food! A garland of ingredients that suggest salad Nicoise finds a spread of smoked trout replacing the traditional tuna. Shocked to see a tuna melt on a menu from former White House chef Frank Ruta? You havent checked off any restaurants yet! The flaky paratha, meanwhile, has become my choice mop. No takeout or delivery. Service. Inside awaits a beaut of a bar, fronted with sea-foam-colored stools, and high-ceilinged dining rooms painted in soothing shades of green. Dinner Wednesday through Monday. Which reminds me, theres no better place to be a regular. In a small strip mall, the facade is nothing to look at. Takeout via Tock and phone. Better still, the vibrant buffet delivered on the palate. In Annandale, wheelchair users can enter the restaurant via the right side of the building, which has a ramp. Seemingly a bushel of arugula shows up with a hailstorm of pistachios, goat cheese crumbles and juicy blackberries. Takeout also available via phone. A visit to this cozy Belgian outpost in the Palisades proves a welcome exception. The smooth filling revels in nutmeg, ginger, vanilla and orange, albeit in amounts that let the sweet potato shine. Share. Dean's Cake House. Takeout also available via phone. No matter what you think of the bridge between Latin America and the Mediterranean created by Enrique Limardo, you cant say he overpromised. No delivery or takeout. Talk about a good neighbor. Sofra tasting menu $95, chefs table at the hearth $150 per person. Limited indoor seating (two stools at a counter). "They drove straight here," knowing they could crash before dinner, says the amazed and grateful chef. Even after more than four decades, the Inn at Little Washington manages to up its game. Takeout via website. The prized seats are those at the counter, where patrons no longer sit knee to knee but still get to observe the chef up close. As luck would have it, Swahili Village opened on March 15, 2020. "Trust me," says the countrys most famous innkeeper. . APRIL 30, 2018 / Washington Post . [Rasika veterans serve memorable Indian-ish food and drink at Daru]. One of the best vegan memories in recent months is the chefs Blue Ridge bowl with local vegetables and basmati rice, over which a server pours an amber liquid that tastes like the distillation of a garden with a whisper of ginger. India has changed, says Bajaj. Private patio table available, reservation required. A warm Persian treat moves in near the convention center. Il Pizzico is all heart. The richest dish of the lot is the slow-cooked lamb, shaped into a soft terrine and grouped with red cabbage, sweetened with agave syrup, and an uber-silky potato puree inspired by the late French chef Jol Robuchon. Design and development by Clare Ramirez. Its an amuse-bouche for us, says the chef. Since his Greek standard-bearer opened in 2003, he has been tinkering with pies, says his wife and business partner, Anne Marler. Consider just the ssam board, DIY tacos assembled from ribbons of rosy marinated short rib and ruffles of spring-green lettuce (ssam is Korean for "wrapped"). A ramp leads to the entrance, where a wheelchair user might need help with double doors; ADA-compliant restrooms. Bobby Jones, the chef and co-owner of one of Marylands prize crab destinations, says his seafood restaurant 10 miles north of Annapolis was inspired by long-ago summer family gatherings at his grandmothers little creekside rancher on Kent Island. Lately, Ive been killing two birds with one stone by ordering simultaneously from Happy Gyro and the owners neighboring Thai eatery, the winning Little Serow. Eat out with any frequency and you cant help but notice changes on the restaurant scene wrought by the pandemic. Theres a reason Henrys, which also has a catering arm and a second, lesser branch in Oxon Hill sells about 100,000 sweet potato pies a year. Diners are instructed to mix the ingredients with a nearby sauce based on gochujang so that each bite delivers the taste equivalent of a little bugle blast. The front will feature a rotisserie and 60-seat bistro. Mama Changs glorious tofu skin salad, slick with chile oil and garnished with cilantro and scallions, qualifies as a final meal request not anytime soon, fingers crossed. As before, you should also know Three Blacksmiths still takes reservations about 200 days out and March 2022 is already spoken for. The executive chef at Anju in Washington, whos spent half his 32 years in the industry, is no Ted Lasso. Try the dumplings filled with shredded cabbage, carrots and potato, each bite improved with a swipe through roasted tomato sauce. Albi now counts two, the newest of which is a glass-enclosed rear patio that can seat up to 25 revelers. That said, my preference is a table in the second-floor dining room. Takeout and delivery. The most Belgian of them all, though, is a waffle chocolate, served with white chocolate whipped cream and chocolate sauce. The single best starter is a plate of calamari, sprinkled with semolina and fried to a fine crunch. This years survey of my favorite restaurants, my 22nd annual fall dining guide, is a reflection of how the pandemic has changed me, too. The dining room is airy and light-filled. No barriers at the entrance; a lift in the bar allows access to the main dining room. Have you heard? His lightly pickled wild sardines, served sashimi style, are from Hokkaido, Japan, noted for the freshness of its seafood. Same for dominoes of roseate local beef accessorized with grilled broccoli, burned eggplant and a dollop of ketchup, brilliant with red pepper. Note just the meatloaf, glazed with sriracha and slightly creamy with Gruyere, a nod to the French background of chef David Deshaies. Spanish Diner opened two years ago to such great and sustained applause in New York, rainmaker Jos Andrs says he felt compelled to open a second branch in Washington, specifically Bethesda, where he lives, and where his three daughters insisted he couldnt close the Maryland branch of Jaleo unless it was followed by something similarly flavored. The weak link? A mouthwatering "reuben" that swaps in shaved celery root for corned beef, and velvety shrimp curry, tingling with galangal and lemongrass, is my idea of a stellar double-feature. Power lunches, cocktails and Afghan dumplings: Washington, D.C No restaurant can be all things to all diners, but I like how this one goes right for the hugs. Best Restaurants 2021: Sfoglina . Because readers asked, the following reviews offer information on vaccine mandates and accessibility. Maybe it was the cloud of garlic I inhaled when I cracked the lid of the buttery sauteed shrimp. Keep in mind that the chefs used to cook at the nearby Curry Leaf in Laurel, and order the haleem. Im most drawn to fish here, although the plump pork chop, brined in baking spices, is mighty impressive. Takeout via Toast. Lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday. Takeout, no delivery. A year like no other calls for a different dining guide. Im nervous, he says. Long and clattery, the dining room is warmed up with vintage accents and young servers who look after you like good neighbors. Seng Luangrath is uncompromising. A custom wood smoker made from a repurposed propane tank, along with an Argentine grill and box smoker in the kitchen, flavor much of the Southern-inspired menu. Jos Andrs brings Spanish comfort food including a lot of eggs to Bethesda. ADA-compliant restrooms. Indoor and outdoor seating. In true izakaya fashion, the menu, illustrated with Sekis doodles, leans to snack-size plates meant to be washed back with drinks. A ground-floor restroom is ADA-compliant. A recent dinner found us tucking into risotto swollen with what tasted like a forest of porcini mushrooms, lamb ragu humming with red wine and rosemary, and pork tenderloin nearly upstaged by its roast potatoes and creamy borlotti beans. (But if you like leftovers ). If you hanker for, say, the painters palette of sorbets or world-class ice cream sundae, just ask. The entrees sidekicks buttery, pull-apart biscuits, a slaw as bracing as a cold shower on a hot day prove the chickens equal. Warning: This graphic requires JavaScript. With the gluten-free chicken comes cauliflower, baked with aioli and richer for it. Inside? The drinks are as serious as any in Washington, and true to its name, the Arlington restaurant serves breakfast five days a week. Reservations required. Save. Knowing that Tyler and her colleagues, chef Jon Sybert and wine maven Bill Jensen, are also behind the nearby Tail Up Goat is reason enough to pay respects. Lentils, cracked wheat, chicken and warm spices add up to a fabulous golden porridge. Indoor only. Diced fluke arranged with ribbons of compressed celery and matchsticks of green apple in a puddle of dashi adds up to the most revivifying crudo for miles. [If family-style takeout is on the menu, these 3 restaurants have a whole lot to offer]. Meanwhile, halibut sauced with coconut milk, curry leaf and green peppercorns, part of a collection of regional classics, is an invitation to south India. In her native Laos, cabbage is used as a scoop and a cover.
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